Living in Kharkiv: A War Diary

Kharkiv, scarred by war yet standing tall with rebuilt structures. Beneath its surface lies a community enduring the constant threat of danger and conflict.

Kharkiv, Ukraine—The 1st of August, 2024, marked the beginning of what I now call my War Diaries. As the sun rose over Kyiv, I found myself enveloped in the final preparations for my journey, meticulously arranged by my friend Vova. By early afternoon, I embarked on the drive to Kharkiv. The journey, a nearly twelve-hour odyssey, brought me to the city's threshold at precisely 5:59 PM Ukraine time.

Upon entering the Kharkiv region, a sign greeted me: "Kharkovska." As I ventured closer, another welcomed me to the city itself. A few hundred metres onward, a checkpoint emerged—a roadblock manned by soldiers and policemen. Cement blocks arranged in a tic-tac-toe pattern forced vehicles to slow down, allowing the guards to scrutinise every entrant. This was not merely a precaution; it was a palpable reminder of the precariousness that had seeped into daily life.

This checkpoint felt like the gates to a fortress. Beyond it, the city unfolded slowly, revealing its skeletal skyline—buildings an…